beyond mountain bikes

While the old adage" If it is not broke, do not fix it "applies, the thorough review that" it is not broke "that counts. Many modern bikes have very long service intervals and are highly reliable as a machine of the past. But let not this make you complacent, regular checks are essential to the welfare of you and your bike.

Easy maintenance

Doing the simple works not only your bike is running well and safely, it saves money - especially if you model parts as an alternative to hard to get and expensive "real" counterparts. Often in the same factory as the originals, pattern parts are generally as good as or better than original equipment.

While these recommendations are available for most bikes, always check the manufacturer's recommendations for the correct service intervals for your machine.

Daily checks

* Lights, indicators and horn
* Speedometer
* Tires and tire pressure - valve caps, on the correct pressure is available
* Fluid levels - oil, coolant, if applicable. Quality oil should be used for new Performance Bikes, semi-synthetic for older bikes. A special quality motorcycle oil as "rock oil should always be used
* Chain - you do if 100 or more miles per day should be lubricated and adjusted as necessary
* Steering works freely, without notches and uneven feel? Is it compatible with the operation of cables at full lock?
* Kill Switch functionality
* Side and center stands - they are back in their correct position for riding?
* Brake hoses - you can use any friction or banjo bolts causing wines?

Week or 200 miles (whichever comes first)

All of the above, plus:

* Check oil level - it requires reinforcement?
* Check tire pressure - Check with an exact thickness
* Check battery - if not maintenance-free, then check the electrolyte level and with distilled water if necessary. If you have an alarm or immobilizer fitted, it might make sense that they charge a fee (this applies particularly if the bike does not regularly). The best solution is always a smart charger, and they are constantly plugged in, while the garage is a bike for any period of time. A battery left uncharged have a shorter lifespan
* Check control cables - lubricate as necessary
* Check your brakes - pads and discs should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary check-up and top-liquid. Adjust drum brakes as necessary
* Take a tour - Check for loose Nuts & Bolts and spokes if applicable. Fork seal leaks, and other oil spills.

Every month or 1,000 miles (whichever comes first)

All of the above, plus:

* Check spark plugs - clean and adjust or replace anything but a light / medium brown deposit may be problems
* Check control cables - Adjustment free game
* Check idle speed - adjust as needed
* Lubricate control lever turns

Every 3 months or 2,500 miles (whichever comes first)

All of the above, plus:

* Change oil and filter
* Change the air filter
* Check wheel and steering head bearings - grease and replace if necessary
* Check the exhaust system for leaks

Every 6 months or 5,000 miles

All of the above, plus:

* Adjust carburetor synchronization - if applicable
* Check overflow pipes - replace all those blocked or missing

All 12 months or 10,000 miles

All of the above, plus:

* Replace spark plugs
* Check the suspension joints - for play, replace linkage, bearings, bushes, as necessary

With the bike up in the winter:

* Regularly charge the battery - better yet, invest in an intelligent charger
* Let the main stand - if your bike does not have kits for most bikes. Invest or at least in a rear paddock stand to support the weight of the bike from the tires, which are treated properly inflated
* Consider the draining gasoline, because during this time, and in extreme cases can evaporate from a nasty bail, the blocking of the carburetor. At least disable Tap the fuel and the engine running until the float tank are empty. Fuel stabilizers are available that can help with this
* Good wax and grease - all parts usually need lubricant. Make sure that the bike is completely dry, then dust with a sheet and keep somewhere dry, preferably not in the same room as a tumble dryer or other causes condensation machinery. If you have them outside, then invest in a good quality, breathable and waterproof for the exhaust outlets with plastic bags

A brief guide to some common service parts:

* Brake pads - Generally for road use brake pads are available in two types: GG and HH, in conjunction with the friction coefficients of brake materials. HH offers more power for the recruitment of a certain force to the brake than the GG. But that does not make HH pads better - it's more a question of balance, taste and driving style. Some people find HH pads to "grabby", especially on lightweight machines. Do not fit HH pads on the back of the bike and GG on the front, which makes the rear brake balance to one side, that's not good. But many people find the opposite: HH on the front and GG on the back very comfortably and effectively. Many newer sports bikes should only HH pads, according to the manufacturer's specifications. A significant disadvantage with HH pads is that they usually carry the brake rotor faster.
* Chains and chain wheels - there are a lot of misleading information about chains and sprockets (sometimes even by the manufacturers to promote their own products), regardless of whether X-ring longer than O-ring, or whether a manufacturer is better than another . It is actually a matter of personal style, how much your machine, your weight, if you lubricate, and adjust the chain properly, the weather and road conditions. Suffice to say that if you pull wheelies, weighs 35 Steine, not oil or adjust the chain and the only ride on wet roads salted your chain will not last very long! That is, if you do not do many miles in a year, you may find that an X-ring is more than an O-ring - or if you ride like Barry Sheen, why buy an expensive heavy chain, which provide an additional draw? On a modern sport bike fitting a new chain and sprockets might 8bhp longer than the old ones, sometimes more, possibly about the same as an expensive "fast ignition, and it will be the bike feel like new.

Motorbike Maintenance is very specific as oil pumps, valve game, ignition times, etc. are not mentioned here, refer to manufacturer's guide, and if in doubt, do not trust the Geezer the publication, which used to have in-wheel moped the 70s, looking for professional advice.

Colin Coles is Technical Manager at World's End Motorcycles. Your Online Store (http://shop.wemoto.com) with the UK's largest stock of pattern motorcycle parts.